Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo de Manila’s 'From Plates to Pages: A Gastronomic Dialogue and Tasting Feast.' Jeeves de Veyra
MANILA — Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo de Manila’s “From Plates to Pages: A Gastronomic Dialogue and Tasting Feast” was a gathering that not only whetted the appetite for good food, but had conversations and insight that fed the soul.
Liza Hernandez-Morales, LCB Manila’s institute director recalled that this started as a book launch with close collaborator, Chef Myke Tatung. Through further discussion and the involvement of prolific author Ige Ramos, the event evolved into full blown symposia with members of the academe and media.
Much like a table, restaurateur and author Chef Tatung says in his book “Pinas Simpol” that Filipino cuisine stands on four legs: being rooted, resilient, respectful and responsive. These principles are linked to issues ranging from culinary identity to food security.
Ramos had a more academic angle on the authenticity of Filipino Cuisine tracing its history to its current state to its ever evolving cultural state as written in the essays in his book “Bukambibig,” the second title in his “Lasa ng Republika” series published by Anvil Food.
Chef Myke Tatung. Jeeves de Veyra
Ige Ramos. Jeeves de Veyra
During the following open fora, the two authors were joined by Dr. Fernando Zialcita from the Ateneo Department of Sociology & Anthropology and their Cultural Heritage Studies Program, and Chef Cyrille Soenen, Le Cordon Bleu Ateneo de Manila’s technical director. Through discussions, Zialicita and Soenen revealed a path forward for Filipino cuisine tying in questions of identity and authenticity in the previous talks.
Rather than creating benchmark recipes for Filipino dishes, the discussion focused on adopting the French model of ingredient traceability and geographical indications. Under France's appellation system, names such as Champagne and Bordeaux may only be used for products originating from those regions.
The speakers said similar initiatives could help protect and add value to Philippine products such as ube and the Bohol delicacy asin tibuok by highlighting their place of origin and unique heritage.
Rob Villacabral, founder of Histolinarya Collective, and historian Estela Duque, founder of Moulinat Chocolat were guest resource people who were called to share valuable updates, particularly on the push for Geographical Indication (G.I) in the Philippines, which is parallel to the French appellation practices.
Participants were ushered into the school where dinner was served featuring dishes from Le Cordon Bleu's heads, and dishes from the two chefs’ cookbooks as prepared by the school's faculty and students. There was a vinegary Bistek Tagalog, embutido with banana ketchup made by the school, and a Tortang Talong gratin lifted from the pages of “Pinas Simpol.”
Chef Tatung's (from left) bistek, embutido and tortang talong. Jeeves de Veyra
Unlike traditional cookbooks, the recipes in Ramos' “Bukambibig” are presented in narrative form. Fresh lumpia with a malunggay speckled wrapper, Caviteno almondigas with smoky tinapa infused meatballs, and Mindanao snack, chicken pastil were the featured dishes.
Ige Ramos' almondigas, fresh lumpia and chicken pastil. Jeeves de Veyra
Morales said to expect more events like these as they promote Le Cordon Bleu as a venue for important conversations about food in the future.